The science behind Bouf

The patented tech behind Bouf is backed by more than 20 years of laboratory research and development and 10 years of market research. Clinical studies, consumer studies and laboratory testing (in-vitro, ex-vivo and in-vivo) have been conducted on this FGF5 hair tech which is now protected by seven global patents and incorporated into Bouf's cosmetic formulations.

Bouf came about when the owners of the patented FGF5 tech – Anagenics – approached York St Brands with the opportunity to license this clinically proven tech under the umbrella of one of their (then) two brands – tbh Skincare or Boost Lab.  With a proven track record in building brands that deeply understand their customer, York St Brands brought the ability to generate demand at scale, manufacture with value in mind, and secure placement across the right distribution channels.

Our Co-Founder & CMO, Rachael Wilde, trialled the tech herself and after seeing the incredible results, knew it needed to be a brand of its own. This is how Bouf was born!  

After 15 months of working through market research, positioning, manufacturing, packaging and branding, we proudly launched Bouf  in mid-2025. 

So, how about the science? 

FGF5 is a naturally occurring protein found in hair follicles on our scalp. Scientists at Japan’s National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology were studying the role of FGF5 in the body.  Upon learning its primary role is to tell our hair when to fall out, researchers began to explore ways to manage FGF5 activity in order to help hair remain in its growth phase for longer.    

Two clinical studies have been conducted on the core ingredients used in our patented technology. Both have been peer-reviewed which means experts not associated with the paper have verified its findings. Both studies were double-blind and placebo-controlled—meaning neither the participants nor the researchers knew who was using the active ingredient or the placebo—and both were reviewed by independent experts to validate the methodology and findings.  

The first clinical study was focused on Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract. This is one of the three core plant extracts in our tech. The study involved 39 partipicants. While modest in size, a 39-participant sample is typical for early-stage clinical studies of this kind and provides meaningful data to evaluate efficacy, especially when conducted under blinded, placebo-controlled conditions. The results of the study demonstrated that this natural botanical active showed FGF5 inhibitory activity and is associated with a prolonged growth phase of the hair cycle, supporting the appearance of reduced hair fall . This study is linked below. Please note that access to this study requires a subscription to Research Gate. 

Link: Clinical Study One  

The second clinical study was co-authored by Dr. Dominic Burg, who was Anagenics’ COO at the time, and is now the COO and Chief Scientist of York St Brands and Bouf Haircare. With a strong background in molecular biology and hair science, Dr. Burg has contributed significantly to the research underpinning Bouf’s technology.  Dr. Burg’s qualifications can be found at length on the Bouf science page.  

This peer-reviewed study explored the FGF5 inhibitory potential of several plant-derived compounds. This study involved 32 participants. While modest in size, a 32-participant sample is typical for early-stage clinical studies of this kind and provides meaningful data to evaluate efficacy, especially when conducted under blinded, placebo-controlled conditions.

The ingredients were assessed using a novel two-stage screening process. A lead candidate- a monoterpeniod-rich botanical formulation – was then evaluated over a 112-day period. The results showed a significant improvement in the ratio of growing hairs (anagen) to resting hairs (telogen) along with a noticeable reduction in visible hair fall. 

Clinical photography taken during the study also highlighted visible improvements in hair density among all participants in the group analysed.

Link: Clinical Study Two